Beginner’s Guide to Japanese Car Auctions: What to Know Before You Bid

So, you’ve heard the whispers. The tales of incredible deals on JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) legends, pristine family cars, and rugged 4x4s, all found in the vast, digital marketplaces of Japanese car auctions. It’s true—this is where you can find everything from a mint-condition Toyota Supra to a dependable Nissan Note at a fraction of the price you’d pay locally.

But diving in without knowledge is a surefire way to lose money. The auction sheet hieroglyphics, the fast-paced bidding, and the complex logistics can be daunting.

Don’t worry. This beginner’s guide will walk you through exactly what you need to know before you place that first, thrilling bid.

1. How Japanese Car Auctions Actually Work (Spoiler: You Can’t Bid Directly)

First things first, as an individual outside of Japan, you cannot bid directly. Japanese auto auctions are exclusive clubs for licensed dealers. This is where a crucial partner comes in: the export agent or broker.

• Your Role: You find a car you like, set a maximum bid, and authorize the agent.
• The Agent’s Role: They are your eyes, ears, and bidding paddle. They translate the auction sheet, inspect the car (often in person), place the bid on your behalf, handle all the Japanese paperwork, and arrange shipping to your country.

Choosing a reputable agent is the single most important decision you’ll make. Look for companies with strong reviews, clear communication, and transparency.

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2. Deciphering the Auction Sheet: Your Best Friend

The auction sheet is the cornerstone of the Japanese auction process. It is a detailed report prepared by professional, third-party inspectors hired by the auction house, offering a comprehensive overview of the vehicle’s condition, history, and specifications.

Understanding the Grades

The Overall Grade is the first filter. Grades typically range from S/6 (best) down to 1 (worst), with special grades for accident history.

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Grade	Condition Summary (General Standard)
S / 6	New or almost new condition, very low mileage.
5 / 4.5	Excellent, well-maintained used car with minor imperfections.
4 / 3.5	Good to average condition for its age; may have scratches/dents, may need minor bodywork.
3 / 2	Below average to poor condition; visible damage, rust, or mechanical issues.
1	Major issue history, such as flood or fire damage.
R / RA	Repaired Vehicle. R is for accident repair history; RA is for minor accident repair history.
*** (or 0)	Salvage grade, major accident, or non-running; often not graded.

Crucial Note: Grading is subjective and can vary between auction houses, which is why the inspector’s written comments are vital.

Key Exterior Symbols

Small letters and numbers on the diagram pinpoint specific flaws.

Symbol	Meaning
A1, A2, A3	Scratches (with the number indicating severity/size).
U1, U2, U3	Dents (with the number indicating severity/size).
W1, W2, W3	Repair mark/wave (indicating panel repainting/repair).
XX	Panel has been replaced.

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